Two Wheels, One Epic Journey: Manali to Leh

“Breathtaking Trails: My Himalayan Ride”- By Mr. Arvind Mishra

A dream that every cyclist in the world wants to be true. This expedition starts from Manali and then you cross 5 passes: Rohtang, Baralacha, Nakeela, Lachungla, and the highest one Tanglang La with an altitude of 17582 feet and finally climaxes at the beautiful location named Leh. There are abundant challenges en route; tough terrain, very low oxygen levels, off-roading at many places, steep elevations, dangerous downhills and extreme weather conditions including sub zero temperature at places, heavy cold and dry headwinds at the passes and snowfall during rides. As a cyclist ???? ??? ?? ???? ??? ??? ???? ???? ?? ?? ???? ??? ??????? ??????, ??????? After completing The Golden Triangle and a couple of mountain rides with some of my cycling buddies ???  ???? ???? confidence ??? ??? ?? ?? ride quality ?? improve ???? ??? ??? 

????? ?? ??? I received a call from Mr. Tarun Wadhwa from Dare2Gear where he told me to join this Manali-Leh Cycling Expedition. I simply asked him, “???? ?? ?? ???????” I was really doubtful of my capabilities and also I had an idea that during this expedition one is supposed to ride in very tough climatic conditions that too at an altitude of more than 13000 feet on most of the days. In his reply he showed confidence in me and stated that “On an average 60 km ?? ?? ???? ????????? ??? downhill ????….” 

My wife was also listening to the entire conversation. She also nodded her head and immediately agreed to pay the entire expenses as my Birthday Gift just to set a good precedence, ??? ?? ????? ??? ???? ?? Birthday ?? ??? ???? ??? 

I asked my younger brother Abhijit and other cycling friends to join me on this expedition. Three of my cycling friends Sanjay Singh, Avdhesh Goel and Pushpinder Singh Chahal got ready right away. Excitement substituted my Insecurities. With the confirmation of my brother my excitement became manifold because after almost 30 years I was going to be with him for such a long time. Entry of Rupesh Gupta at the last moment was an icing on the cake. It is an honor to call you, Brother. Around one and a half months 

before the event, all participants were instructed to practice for good cadence and around 5 hours of saddle time by team D2G. I planned my training slightly differently and that was initially 1 century ride, 2 fast half centuries and 5 km running twice a week for 3 weeks and ultimately 5 centuries for 5 consecutive days without any break. Unfortunately in the beginning itself during the Say Hello to Phantom – my Lapierre Raid 529.first century of my training, I met with an accident which forced me to stay immobilized for around a month. Event ?????????? 5 ??7 kg weight loss ?????? plan ??, ????? ????  ???? ?? put on ?? ????, ?? ??? ???? 125 kg ?? ?? ???  ?? ?? ??? ???? ?? ???? ?? ????? ?? ??? ???? ?? ???? ?? ?? ???? ?? ???? ??? 

Out of the six of us, Me, Abhijit and Sanjay Sir (all 3 from the same college) reached Manali three days earlier i.e. on 25th August. We did the Hidimba temple ride on 26th and on 27th we rode to Solang valley. Three musketeers from NIT Jamshedpur Rest 3 people of our gang Avdhesh, Pushpinder and Rupesh joined us in the evening on 27th August. Thanks to Sanjay Sir for the delicious Dinner Party at the bank of river Beas. 

Day 0 : Manali 

On 28th August, we all met and acquainted with the other fellow riders as well as the crew team members at Hotel Kanishka in Manali. Post-Lunch, all the cycles were examined by D2G technical team and we headed out for a short orientation/acclimatization ride.???? tension ????? ?? ??? ?? ??????? ???? cycle ?? ?? ??? ????? signal ???? ???? ??? ??? ?????, ?? ?????????? ????? ?? ????, ??????? ?? ??? ?? ???? ?????? ??? ????? ??? ? ??? ????? ? ???? ??? ????????, ????? Rupesh ?? ???? ?????? ?? ????? ???? ?? ??? ???? ?? ??? ?? ??? ???? ??????? ???? ?? ?????? ?? ??? ??? ?? ??? ?? ???? ??? ??? ?? ?????? ?? ????? ????? ?? ????? ?? ????? ??, ?? ???? ????? ??? ???? ?? ???? ? ??? ???????, ????? ?? ????? ?? ???? ???? ???? ???

In the evening, briefing was done by Mr.Tarun Wadhwa and after dinner we were sent for complete rest before the beginning of this cycling expedition.???? ?????? ?? ????? Abhijit ?? ??? ?????? ??? ???? ?????? ????? ?? ???, ????? ?????? ?? ???? ?? ?? ???? ?? ???-??? ?????? ?? ??? ??? ????? ????? ???? ???? ??? ?? ????? ?? ??? ??, ?? ??? ?? ????????? ???? ?? ??? ?? ?? ??????????, ???????? ?? ??????? ???????? ?? ???? ??? ??? 2 ??? ?? ????? ??? ?? ???? ??? ???? ??? ?? ??? ???? ????………Abhijit threw a party for all those who had their birthdays in August including me.

Day 1: Manali to Marhi  |  Night Stay: Domes / Camping  | Cycling: 35km 

A weird alarm sound (from Abhijit’s phone) forced me to wake up at 5 AM. We got ready and had our breakfast by 7.30 AM. The hotel itself was the flag off point for our today’s journey. We had a photography session before starting the day ride. It was a bright Our East Delhi Riders team EDR sunny morning. We began our ride at around 8 AM. I was mentally prepared to face a tough day because it was a steep climb of an average inclination of around 4.3%. The team!! I was riding at a very slow pace ??????? ??? ? ??? ?? ?? ???? ????? ??? We came across different villages like Palchan, Kothi, Gulaba etc. The landscape was lush green, very misty, and had plenty of waterfalls. As we were approaching Marhi the weather got worse. The cold wind started with drizzle. We crossed more than 30 hairpin bends to climb around 1500 m to a beautiful place named Marhi by 3 PM. ????, ??? ??????? ???, ?????, ?? ???? ??? ???? ????????? ???? Pushpendra ?? ???? ????? ????? ?????? ???????? ?? ???? ?? ??? ???? ????? ??????? ???? ???????? ??? ??? ????? Ride Motivator Mr. Raghav ?? stretching ????? ?? ???? ?? ???? ???? ?? ???, ???? ?? ?????????? ?????? ???????? ?????? ?????? ???? ?????? ??? ???????? ?? ?? ????

Post dinner we went to the dome where our tents were set up. I was very excited because I was going to sleep in the tent for the first time in my life in a sleeping bag. ?? ?? dome ?? ???? ???????? ???? ?? ??? ??? ?? ???? ??? ?? jugnu ??? ??? ?? ?? ???? ???? ??? ?? ???? pura ???? ??? ???? ?? ????? ???, ????? ???? ?? ???? ??? ?? suitable clothes ?? ???? ??? ??? ??? ??? Out of the 11 tents, Tent no.5 was allotted to Abhijit and me. Abhijit fitted himself into the sleeping bag available inside the camp very easily ????? ???? ???? ????? ??? ?? ??? ?? ?? …….. mujhe ussi ????? ????? ???? ?? ??? ? ???, ????? mujhe ?? ???? ????? ??? ???? ???? ?? ????? ??????? ?? ?? ???????? ???? ?? ??????? ?? ???? ?????? ??? mujhe ???? ???? ?? ?? ???? ?? ?????? ???? ?? ???? ??? Sleeping bag ?? ??? ?? ?? ???? ?????? ?? upyukt ?? ?? ?? ?????? Tent No. 5 maine ?? ???? ?? Gurpreet (Technical Head) ?? ???? ?????? ????? ??? ???? mujhe ?? ????? ?? ?? ???? ?? ??? ???? ?? sizes of sleeping bags ?? research ???? ??? ??? ???? ?? ???? ?? ???? ??? ??? ???? 

Day 2 :Marhi to Keylong | Stay: Hotel | Cycling: 78 km 

During breakfast we came to know that Sanjay Sir too had the sleeping bag issue, which he solved by using two sleeping bags (He laid on one of the sleeping bags and covered himself with another one) ???? ??? ???? ????? ?? muskhan ?? ??? ?? ??? ???? ??????? ?? ?? ?? ???? ????????? muskan ?? ?? ??? ?? ?????? ?? ???? ??????? The day began with a 15 km steep climb to the Rohtang pass having an altitude of 13060 feet. We took around 2.5 hrs to reach there. The weather was very cold and harsh at the Rohtang top, so we spent very less time there. 

?? ?? ??????? ?????? ?? ???????? ??? ???????? ???? ?? ???? ?? ??? ??? ?? ???? ?????? ????? ???? ??, ??? ?? ????? ?? ??? ?? ?? ????? ?????? ??????????? ??? ?? ?????????? ?? ??? ?? ?? ???? ?????? ?? ??? ???????? ???? ???? ?? ?????? ????? ??? ?? ?? ???? ????????? ?????? ?? ?????? ?? ?????? ?? ???? ??????? ?? ?????? ?????????? ?? ???? ????? ?????????? ????? ??? ???? ??? ?????????? ?? “???? ?? ???” ???? ??? ????? ???? ????? ?? ????? ???? Rohtang Pass (13050 feet) [The literal meaning of Rohtang is Valley of Death. Actually in ancient times people tried time and again to cross this pass to discover the other side. But due to the extremely difficult climate most of them fell prey to nature, so the name has derived.]

After some relaxation and photo session at Rohtang, we descended towards the River Khoksar. It was a steep, monotonous and dangerous downhill of around 34 km up to a small town Sissu in the Lahaul valley at the foothills of the Pir Panjal range. We had Sure, I may look ridiculous, but I’m with my best friends, so I don’t care. lunch at Sissu at a roadside restaurant named Day Night cafe. ??????? ????? ???? ???? Dare2Gear ?? ????????, ??? ?? ???? ?? ??? bill payment ?? ??? ?????? ?? ??? ??? ?? ?? ??? ?? ?????? ??? ??? ??? Sissu to Tandi was a 22 km rolling stretch and then there was a constant elevation of 7 km from Tandi to Keylong. The ride consumed the entire day. We checked into a hotel in Keylong for a night halt. The best part of the hotel was that they were providing running hot water in bathrooms. So first I took a bath. As a result fatigue subsided to a great extent. ??????? ?? Trust me I’m Engineer….?? ???? ???? ??? ????? ?? ???? ?? ???? ??? ???? ??, ?? ?? ????? ?? ?? ?? ?? ??? ??? ???? ? ????? ?????, ???? ???? ????? ?? ??? ?? ????????? ???? ?? ??? ?? ???? ???? ?? ??? ?? ???

Day 3 :Keylong to ZingZingBAr | Stay: Dormitory style dhaba tent / Camping | Cycling: 58 km 

Keylong ?? ?? ???? ?????? ?? ????????? ??? ? ?? ?? ??? ?? ??? ? ????? ??? ?? ???? ??? ???? ???? ????? ????? ???????? ??? ???? ??????? for the next 4 days we were not going to have access to mobile network, bathing water and most Importantly, the western toilet. Our confidence was at its peak after crossing Rohtang. We started pedaling across Gemur, Jispa, Darcha on rolling rusty rocky terrain. We had Lunch at a food van called ‘The Meal Machine’ near Deepak Tal or Patsio lake. (The Meal Machine) ?????????????? ?????? ?? saddle (???? ??????? ?? ??? ??) ???? ???? ??????? ??? ??? ??, ???????? ???????? ??? ?? ???? ?? ?? ????, ????? ??? mujhe ???? weight right side ??? shift ???? ride ?????? ???? ??? 4-5 km ?? ??? mujhe ???? ???? ?????? ???????? ?? ?? ??? ?? ??? ??? ?? ????? ?? ?????????? ???? ????? ??? ???? ?????? saddle sore ????? ?? ?? ??? ?? ???? ?????? ? ?????????? ?? ????? Thanks to one of the co-riders, Mr. Vyas, who was carrying a spare saddle (??? ???? ?????) with him, gave me the confidence to ride fearlessly. From the lunch point it was a gradual and easy climb ride to ZingZingBar but as I was gaining altitude my difficulty in breathing was increasing probably because of lack of oxygen. By the time I reached ZingZingBar, my condition started deteriorating. I was having a constant headache and my Oxygen level went down to 65%. ???? ??? ?? ?? (Dormitory style dhaba tent at ZingZingBar)??? ????????? ????? ?? ??? ?? ???? ???? low altitude ?? ??? ???? ?????? ????? ???? ???? ???? ???? ??, ?? ???????? ?????? actual health condition ?????????? ??? ?? Paracetamol ?? ?? ?? ????

Day 4 :ZingZingBar to Sarchu | Stay: Swiss Hut | Cycling: 58 km 

Today we were supposed to cross the second mountain pass, Baralacha (16500 ft), in the Zanskar range, connecting Lahaul district in Himachal Pradesh to Leh district in Ladakh. After riding a 14 km uphill, we reached the Sooraj Taal. The Bhaga river, a tributary of the Chenab river, originates from Sooraj taal. The other major tributary of the Chandrabhaga, the Chandra river also originates from glaciers in this region. After Sooraj Taal, the trail was becoming steeper till Baralacha La. As I was climbing up I was feeling more unwell. It was becoming hard for me to pedal, ?? ??? ?? ??? ?????? ??? ??? ?? ???? ??? Abhijit sensed that I was not well and that’s why he was riding with me since morning. This was my second big problem. Because of his presence I was neither able to take breaks more often nor I could cry in front of him. On the contrary, I was feeling guilty for spoiling his ride. ??? ??? ??? ??????? ?? ????????? ????? ??? ??? ???? ????????? ?? ????, ?? ???? ??? ??? ?????? ???? ??? ?? ???? ??? ?? pucha ?? ??? ??? ????? ???? ?? ?? ??? ?? ??? jaate I could hardly hold back my tears. A Brother will always stand by you!!

Anyhow, we managed to reach Baralacha Pass. We took some snaps there and then headed towards Sarchu. A stream of glacial water known as ‘Pagal Nala’ flows across the highway at Bharatpur. One must be extremely careful while crossing this stream as the water is ice-cold and the flow becomes powerful as the temperature rises during daytime. Pagal Nala – ???? ?? ???? ???? ?? ?? ??????? ???? Bharatpur to Sarchu was a rolling terrain and it was one of the best in terms of scenic beauty. The entire topography changed and we got the first glimpse of the Mountain Desert. As I reached Sarchu, I again started experiencing a severe headache. I checked my Oxygen level and found it to be 37%. It was alarmingly low. I knew I was suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). But ?? ??? ???? ???? ?? ????? ???? ??, ride ???? ???? ??, give up ???? ???? ??? ???? ?? headache ???? ???????? ?? ??? ?? Thanks to the D2G team for keeping me on oxygen support for the whole night. ??????? ?? ?? ??????? ????????? ?? ?? ?? headache ???? ???? ??? ???? ??? ???? ???? ???? ?? ???? ???? ???…….. (Thanks Dare2Gear for providing a much needed ????)

Day 5 :Sarchu to Pang | Stay: Domes / Camp | Cycling: 80 Km 

Our day began with an entry to the Union Territory of Ladakh. The first section of the ride took us all along the river Tsarap. After crossing river Tsarap, the road started ascending steadily. ?????????Brandy Bridge, Whisky Bridge ??? ???? ??????? ??? ??????? ???? ??? ???????????? ?????????? ?????? ??????? ????? ????? ???? ?? topography ????? ?? ?? ??? ???? ?? ??? ? ?????? ?? ?? ??? ?? ??? ??? I could feel the presence of the oceanic floor and sea sediments everywhere. ?? ???? Gata Loops ??? ???? ??| Gata Loop, is a stretch of loopy road, having 21 hairpin bends at a height of about 17000 ft. The entire series of loops is about 10.3 km and every loop (Gata Loops) measures 300-600 metres. You may have heard the ghost story of bottle baba who died due to thirst, and about the bottle baba shrine where he was buried at one of the loops. You may not want to trust this story, but believe me, while crossing these parched loops, I felt that it is very much possible for someone to die of thirst. At the bottle baba shrine, travelers leave water bottles as offerings. ???? ???? ??? ??? ???? ?? ?? ??? ??????? ???? ??? ????? ?????? ??? 

?????? ???????? ??? ????? ?? ??? ?? ???? ????? ?????????? ?????? ??? ?? ?????????????? ???? ????? ??????? ?? ??? ???? ??? ?? ???? ?? ???? ????, ?? ???? ?????????? ???? ?? ?? ?? ???? ???????? ???? ?? ??????? ???? ?? ??? ?? ?????? ?????? ???? ???, ????? vomiting jaisa ?? ?? ??? ??????????? ???? ????? ?? ???? 15 ???? ????? ????, ???? ?????????? ??? ?????? ???, ???? ???? ? ?? ?? ????? ??? ????? ?????? ?? ??? ???? ???? ????? ??? ???????? ?? ??? ??? ??10 ???? ?? ??? ?????? ????? ??, 100 ???? ?? ???? ??? ??????, ??? ?? ?? ????????? ??? ?? andhera ?? ???? ??????? ??? ?? ?????? ??? ?????? ???, ?? I reached Lachung La with the help of support car. ??7 ???? ???? ???? ???? ?????? ?? ?? ????? ?? ????? ???? ??? ?? ???? ???????? ?? ???? sunni ????? ?? ???? ?? ?????? ???? ?????? waise ?? ??? ?????? ????? ?? ???? ?? ????? ?????? ?? ????? ???????? ?? ????? 

When we reached Pang, we found comparatively well-built temporary rooms available with attached toilets for accommodation, which is a rare luxury on that highway. My health started deteriorating again. I was again kept on oxygen support for the whole night. 

Day 6 :Pang to Debring |Stay: Camping / Dhaba | Cycling: 51 km 

This morning, my health started to improve. The headache subsided. After riding a 5 km uphill, we reached the most beautiful route of this journey called More plain (?????????). ??????? ?? ??, yuhi ??? ??? ???? ?????????, is a plateau at an average elevation of 15,750 ft, having a stretch of around 40 km with mountains on both the sides. ????????? ?? local language ??? Kiang Chu Thang ???????, (Kiang Chu Thang means a plain where the kiang (Wild Tibetan ass) does not find water.) ???????? D2G ?? ?????? ?? ????? ???????? ?? ??? ??? ???? ??? ?? ?? ??????? ??? ???????? ???? We did some photo shoots in this region. In spite of the heavy headwind it was a wonderful experience to ride through the More plains. ?? ?? ?? ??????? ?????? ??????? ?? ????? ????? ?? ??? ??? ?? ????? ?? ??? ?? ??????? ??? ???? ?? ?? ????? 

Day 7 :Debring to Lato | Stay: Guest House | Cycling: 54 km 

???? ????? snowfall ?? ??? ?? ?? ??? ??ride ???? ??? ?????? ???? ?? ?? ???? ?? ??? ???????? ????? ??? ?? because we were going to cross the highest point of the Manali Leh expedition and the second highest motorable pass of the world open for public. It was really a tough climb but I saw it as an opportunity to prove my worth in front of me after my Lachung La failure. ?? ???? ?????????? ?? ???? ??? ????? ?? ?? ??? ????, ??? ?? ?? ????? ?? ???? ???? acclimatization ?? chuka ??? I kept on pedalling and by around 11 AM I reached The Tanglang La (17582 feet from sea level). We were instructed to not stay at passes for more than 5 minutes so after taking some snaps I started descending towards today’s night stay point Lato, one of the oldest villages of Leh Ladakh. The Lato stay was relatively comfortable, hot water was available in bathrooms and most importantly we could finally connect with the rest of the world via mobile network after around 4 days. 

Day 8 :Lato to Leh | Stay: Hotel | Cycling: 82 km 

We woke up with utter excitement. ?? ?? ride relatively ???? ??? ?? ???? ????? ??? ??, ???? ?? ???????? ??? ????? ?? ??????? ??? ??? ???? ??? ????? ???? ?? ????? ?? ??? ??? ?? ??? ??? ??? ????????? ??? ?? ?? ?? ?? ???? ???? ?? ?????? ?? ??? ??? “??? ??? ?? ?? ???”? ??????? ???? ??? ???????? ?? ??????? ??? We cycled the rest of the way to Leh town is mostly flat land. We crossed several villages, and some famous monasteries on our way to the town. Shey Monastery The signboard saying “Welcome to Leh” made me think of the day when I decided to do this expedition for the first time. I was in tears…. ?? khushi ?? aansu ??? I lived my dream. I was feeling extremely proud of my accomplishment. I was proud of having those people in my life ?? ???? expedition ??? ???? ??? ???? ???? ??? ?? ??, ????? ??????? ??, ???????? ?? ???? ????? ???? ????? ????? ?? ?? ??? ?? ?? co-riders ?? ?? ?? dusre ?? ???? ???? ???? ??? ?? Abhijit ?? ?? ???? expedition ??? ???? ?? ??? ??? ???? ??? ?? Avdhesh Goel ?? Rupesh Gupta ?? ????????? mujhe ???? mountain ride ?????? mujhe ???? ?? ??? ?? ???? cycling ????? EDR ?? ???? ?? mujhe ?? expedition ?? pura  ?????? confidence ????? ??? ???????? ?? Dare2Gear team ?? ????? ???? ?? expedition ????? ??? There was a roller coaster of feelings inside me which I can’t express even half of it. jaise ???? important examination ?? ?????? ???? ?? ??? ????? ?? ???? ???? ???? ??? ????? ??? ???? ??? ?? ???? ?????? ?????? ??? order ??? execute ????, ??? waisa ?? ???? ??????? ?? ??? feel ?? ??? ??? ??????? ???? ?? ??? ?? ?? ??? ???? ?? ???? ??? ???? ??? ??? ??? ??, ??? ???? ?? ???? cyclist ?? ?????? ?? ?? ??????? ??? ?????? ???? ??, ?? maine ????? pura ?? ????? ??? ???? ?? ???? ?? ??? ??? ?????? ?? ?? ??? ?? felicitation ceremony ??, social media ?? ???? ?? achievement ?? ?????? ?? ??? share ?????? …….. 

It was not just a trophy, I was holding an everlasting memory. Started as a team and ended up as a family.

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