Gaumukh Trek

The lord is so kind that he has spread the river Ganges throughout the universe so that by taking bath in that holy river everyone can get release from the reactions of sins, which occur at every step.

Srila Prabhupada

The ganga is India’s foremost sacred river of 7 rivers, flowing the 1500 miles from the glaciers of Himalayas thought 29 cities and 7 towns of northern Himalayas and merges into India ocean through great delta of Bay of Bengal of eastern coast.

This trek was in my bucket list from quite a long time and fortunately I got the opportunity to travel with 2 more people Dr. Prabhu and Miss. Nina Pulaska. This trip was organized by Dare2gear and I went there as trip coordinator for them. Both of them are very kind human beings.  Dr Prabhu is a psychologist who works to understand human brain and works on research of unwinding the brain to rebind it positive energy. Miss Nina is a spiritual follower who keep visiting India once in a year for meditation and yoga practice. Where as professionally she works as a pilot of choppers.

Rishikesh to Gangotri Drive

We started our journey from Rishikesh at 6:00 am early morning as it was a long drive so wanted to have some time in buffer. It was a beautiful shinny day with cold breeze flowing and we witnessed the beautiful sunrise on the way. It was from foothills of mountains but stunning start of journey.

On route we stopped for our breakfast at Chamba and for lunch at Nagani a village on the way to uttarkashi. But the site from there was also very beautiful. River flowing deep down in valley with crystal clear water. Making its path between the two huge mountains and lush green mountains with fresh air. We sat at there for some time to enjoy the view and absorb the beauty of nature.

 After having Lunch we started our journey to Uttarkashi from where we picked our local Guide Shoorveer Singh who has joined us as our trek guide. He is also an experienced leader who is in this profession from last 20 years. After picking him we continued our journey to gangotri our destination for the day. By 7 pm we reached Gangotri with easy drive and enjoying the lemon Ginger tea breaks and the rainfall for an hour or so on the way. After reaching there we got our rooms settled there and had some rest. We met at dinner again where the next two days trek has been briefed on dinner table with the things to pack along for trek. As we have planned earlier itself that we will take small backpack along and big one we shall keep behind and shall collect once we are back so we were instructed accordingly.

Trek Day 1

We woke up at 6 had bath and got fresh, as decided last night we all met at 7:30 to visit Gangotri Temple it was cold in morning and the marble floor was chilling but the feeling of that moment was different it was more of excitement for the day we were looking forward. And before starting the trek we were there to take the blessings of Godess of Ganges and have the feel of the place where gorgeous graffiti is also drawn of Lord shiva and Ganga flowing out of him.

After doing worship we had our breakfast and then everyone was excited to start our journey. For permission as we were having 60+ aged Dr Prabhu he has to undergo a medical check up at Gangotri Hospital to get check his fitness level. As this took a little while and we got our heads up around 9:30 am from the doc after he analyzed him for 40 -45 minutes. As he was planning to go on horse by the time we reached on last pair of horse was left and there they don’t send horses single. They always send them in pair. But as only one horse was required locals were asking Dr Prabhu to pay for both even if one horse will go without any one on his back. So he took a call to stay in gangotri and do his meditation and yoga there.

Nina, Shoorveer and me started our trek around 10:00 am and the view from start of trek is very stunning. River Ganges flowing on your right, huge mountain on your left and you are walking on a small rocky and mudy path. You will see on the route the water pipes have installed to supply mountain water to respective hotels and shops of gangotri. It is gradual climb in shadow of trees after first 1.3 km where you will reach the main entrance of Gaumukh Trek. Where they will take the entry fees for Trekking to there reserved forest area. For Indian entry fees is Rs 150 minimum charges for 2 days and the per day charges keeps adding.  For people coming from abroad its Rs 600 with same principal of no of days. After paying our entrance fee we continued our journey as a long way to cover.

after approx 5 km the first wood bridge comes over the river. It is interesting to watch it as it shows the intelligence of mountain people how wisely they have designed it and placed it. Keeping in mind the factors of flowing water and snow in peak winters. After crossing that you enter in region of rocky path where you will get big stones on the way and cemented path also for a short distance. In this region you will see you are walking on the edge of mountain where 90 degree straight mountain up and similarly down of shining pale yellow color huge rock and river Ganga flowing next to it. Is a stunning and scary moment to witness. After trekking for 10.300 Km you will reach Chirbasa which is the only point during the trek where you will get some food to eat. Mostly trekkers rest there for some time, enjoy the Maggie, tea and other refreshments like coke, frooti, maaza chips etc. And then continue there journey. Chirbasa is the last green belt zone post that greenery starts depleting and oxygen becomes thin in air.

After enjoying our meal we continued our journey to Bhojbasa our destination for the day. Now the land is barrel and you have to trek in thin air where oxygen is less so I advise keep drinking the water during the trek as much as possible.  Even if you are fit still and is a regular trekker  not to ignore precautions because AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) can happen to anyone and it may lead to spoil you plan for the next day.

Why I am writing this as I took things for guaranteed and unknowingly was hit by AMS as in night oxygen level drops to higher extent and then you feel short of breathe and have headache. This can be avoided by keeping your body fully hydrated and if needed have Diamox a day prior of trek day for some it works magically as Nina my co trekker has taken medicine for better acclimatization.

I was not able to sleep for entire night and had a lot of water Fast&Up Relaods tabs for refilling electrolytes in body.

On many portal you might see trek is of 14 km but in actual it is of 16 kms. So be prepare mentaly for this and in last approx 700  mts it is complete rocky patch to Bhojwasa. After reaching at Bhojwasa we have multiple stay options like camps, baba ji ashram and GMVN guest house. We stayed in GMVN as it most hygienic place to stay if you are not staying in camps. I prefer to stay in camps in such places but as Nina has specific requirement to stay in wooden rooms so Dare2Gear management has made arrangements for her there. The food was good enough; don’t expect any lavish taste they use very basic ingredients to keep food light and easy to digest.

Trek Day 2

Our return day This morning as I was not able to sleep last night so I took the call not to move ahead to gaumukh and I sent Nina with shoorveer, myself rested in GMVN. They started there trek at 6:30 am after having porridge in breakfast and  they returned by 11:30 am. Nina is quite fit person and an expert of marshalate. After returning we all had some pranthas, soup and bread toast and started our return journey to Gangotri. As I was drained and tired so I knew I will be on slower pace than previous day so I told shoorveer to take Nina along and I shall manage to reach onmy own we all meet at Chirbasa.

Witness the Blue Sheep

On the way back as I was the Tail and Nina was ahead of me for about 150 mts while passing a mountain she witness a stone falling from top of mountain and when she saw up then she witnessed Blue Sheep. Then she gave sign to me pointing toward it and I captured that moment in my DSLR. You can see the blue sheep also know someone is capturing her and matching the eyes in camera.

After witnessing it we reached chirbasa had our midday meal and then continued our journey. 

Fear of Death 

While on the way back as I was alone I told Shoorveer and Nina to take the lead as they were planning to visit to Bhangadu Vasa an off route destination which is not being covered generally. So they were quite ahead of me and new to first wooden bridge there is rocky patch again. Here after crossing on the way back it is a tricky turn which sometimes trekkers not able to find in first glace. Same happened with me and started walking on stones and there were foot prints of horses and their guides. So I thought there must be a way and in the flow of enjoying the valley I kept walking there in wrong direction. After reaching very close to flowing River Ganges I realized I am off track. It was evening 5 pm and I shouted with the name of my co trekkers but I knew at back of my mind the must be too far and not able to hear me. So I started walking back. That was the moment when fear of death strikes in my head. With thought of getting lost here, if not able to find the way back to trail. It was pretty easy solution to go back to start point of that bridge and find route but as that was also far. So mind was looking for the shortcut. And as fear of getting dark and then cold so getting back on trail was the first thing hitting my head. I saw some stone wall around 200 mts from my eyesight. It was straight up mountain at 75 degree. That was the moment when all tiredness was evaporated I was fully charged like a bullet ready to fire and climbed that mountain in 7-8 minutes straight up where there is no way, no path, pure mountain, loose stones and thorns bushes. But all things were nothing in front of target to hit the trail. And finally I got the trail without reaching to the start point from where I got lost. The thumb rule of trekking which I have learnt when applied it works magically.

This was an interesting fact to observe human brain how differently it works. Prior to it I was limping because of accident, which I had a year back. In which my leg broke of and metal rod is inserted to support. During that period there was no pain and post that in comfort zone same limp and dragging pace came back. I was surprise myself to see this human behavior. I reached by 6:15 pm at the next meeting place i.e entrance gate of trek. There I met Nina and our guide and then started my journey to our hotel.

A night view of Gangotri Temple on the way back to hotel. After reaching hotel we rested for the day. Shared the pictures and stories of our trek and findings. Enjoyed the dinner and planned to start early morning from there around 6:30 am for rishikesh and executed the same. It was an awesome experience of trekking and driving. Looking forward to visit back for Gangotri Gaumukh trek in month of may 2020.